(Older Post) 1876 – Seymour, CT c. 1900 – Emporia, KS (Newer Post)

1896 Queen Anne – Springfield, KY (George F. Barber)

SOLD / Archived From 2014
Added to OHD on 8/5/14 - Last OHD Update: 2/14/18 - 16 Comments
Address Withheld

Map: Street View

Price

$69,500

Beds

5

Baths

2

SqFt

3000

Acres

0.44

This beautiful Victorian home built in 1896 features gorgeous custom moldings and trim throughout.This home has five bedrooms and two bath with plenty of room in this 3000 sq ft layout. This property is located in historic downtown Springfield , Ky. Remodeling has already begun! Give us a call and schedule your tour!
Sold By
Stephen D. Hale, Hale Realty & Auction      859-336-8488
Links & Additional Info
State: | Region: | Period: ,
Associated Styles: | Architect: | Misc:

16 Comments on 1896 Queen Anne – Springfield, KY (George F. Barber)

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  1. Ally says: 14 comments

    Wow…I’m loving this one! I could move to Kentucky for this!

  2. Bethany says: 2267 comments
    OHD Supporter

    Escondido, CA

    Love! Want!

  3. John ShifletJohn Shiflet says: 4284 comments

    Another nice towered Queen Anne style house with superb “bones” and an outstanding price as well. I see that unfinished attic and visualize the finishing out possibilities…maybe a nice entertainment area, “man cave”, office, or a couple of spare bedrooms? This is one of the better properties to come along in a while around this price range-just too many period goodies for it to stay on the market very long. Bring some paint stripper with you and you’ll be good to go.

  4. RosewaterRosewater says: 3894 comments
    OHD Supporter

    1875 Italianate cottage
    Noblesville, IN

    Oooooh. I’ll take the early sectional in the attic PLEASE!

  5. Chris DiMatteiChris DiMattei says: 234 comments

    This is yet another example of a George F. Barber designed home. This design was first published in Barber’s “Revised New Model Dwellings” book, published in 1895/96 as design #91. What a bargain for such a great house. Also, it looks like the house next door might also be a Barber design. I will, of course, check it out. Excellent find, Kelly.

    • John ShifletJohn Shiflet says: 4284 comments

      The Geo. Barber design provenance possibility did occur to me but I neglected to mention it. There was another aluminum/vinyl sided towered Queen Anne I ran across in Steetview I thought might also be a Barber design but I did not make note of the address. The historical marker outside pertains to the home of an early citizen of Springfield who officiated the marriage of Abraham Lincoln’s parents-many decades before this house was built but it may be for a house now missing or one standing nearby. Seems that Springfield, KY is history conscious.

    • Kelly, Old House DreamsKelly, Old House Dreams says: 8928 comments
      Admin

      1901 Folk Victorian
      Chestatee, GA

      I saw the other one and figured you probably already knew about it, didn’t even cross my mind this was one too!

    • Kelly, Old House DreamsKelly, Old House Dreams says: 8928 comments
      Admin

      1901 Folk Victorian
      Chestatee, GA

      Adding, the house next door also is for sale. link

  6. Tommy QuinnTommy Quinn says: 450 comments

    White paint is the kryptonite of old homes. Can painted trim be brought back to natural wood or is it a one-way trip?

    • RosewaterRosewater says: 3894 comments
      OHD Supporter

      1875 Italianate cottage
      Noblesville, IN

      Sure can, though the degree to which the wood will look original varies. It helps to have mucho patience, and a handful of dental tools. Looks like someone already got this one started in the front hall…

    • John ShifletJohn Shiflet says: 4284 comments

      The standard sealer and finish during the late Victorian era was orange shellac. When paint is applied directly over the old shellac, it comes off easily and leaves little residue. On the other hand, sometimes the painter wanted a smoother more thorough job so they used denatured alcohol (flammable) to clean off the old shellac and then applied the white paint (oil base with a mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine as a solvent) directly on the bare wood. Bare Pine will absorb some of the white pigments and it can be a real chore to get traces of it out. Worse is Oak stripped bare and then painted as paint will soak into the larger pores characteristic of this species. On Oak, it can take a ton of work to get all the traces of white paint out. Fortunately, most painting over old shellacked wood puts the paint layer over the old finish. Once the wood has been cleaned to bare wood, it can be refinished in the clear. In cases where all traces of white cannot be removed, a skilled refinisher can use matching wood colored powdered pigments and do careful in-grain painting to cover up the white. Worst are those who do a poor job of stripping leaving many dots and spots of white paint and then slap on coats of polyurethane resulting in a speckled finish. Refinishing old painted woodwork is labor intensive and is one job I’d be tempted to farm out to pros if there was a lot of woodwork needing to be cleaned up. Be sure to tackle the woodwork refinishing before floor refinishing as the stripping process can mess up a new floor finish. (and newly painted walls as well)

      • Magsnj says: 1 comments

        John Shiflet, The house I bought has shellac on the doors which were then painted…..the paint is chipping off in places and you can see the shellac underneath, so I believe you when you say it would come off easily, but what do you think is the best/easiest/most sensible way get the paint off completely?

        • John ShifletJohn Shiflet says: 4284 comments

          3-M makes a citrus based “Safest Stripper” which is a paste-gel type liquid. Not the cheapest stripper but safer for health, and clean up with water. I would take the door off the hinges (remove the hinge pins-if rusty and the pin(s) won’t come out, you may have to use a solvent like liquid wrench to soak over time and loosen it.) If it still won’t budge, you may have to remove the hinge screws from one side and leave it attached either to the door or doorframe. Once removed, take the door and place it on sawhorses in an area out of direct sunlight, apply the stripper liberally and you can cover it with plastic sheeting to retard evaporation. Make sure you have something underneath the work area to catch the residue and then properly dispose of it. Give it a few hours to work, keep the paste wet and reapply if necessary, then take a dull putty knife and you should be able to gently scrap off all the paint layers at once. Water and #0000 steel wool should help clean off the residue but if shellac remains, you can use denatured alcohol (wearing solvent tolerant protective gloves) or acetone/lacquer thinner to get the last of the residue removed. Keep in mind all of these solvents are flammable-especially the latter-so if they are used all work should be done outdoors away from sparks and open flames. (not a basement project) ONLY if you’ve had considerable experience with a heat gun should you ever consider heat stripping and only outdoors on sawhorses; as the old paint bubbles and is scraped off you’ll have dry paint residue but too hot of a heat gun can easily scorch the wood underneath (permanently-you’ll have to sand out the scorch marks) A heat gun can also cause thermal cracks in old glass-a real disaster if you have stained glass or a fancy beveled or etched pane. I don’t recommend heat stripping for first timers. The newer infrared heat stripping tools are supposed to be less damaging but I have no experience with them. A last approach would be to dry scrape with a carbide bladed scraper-but there the hazard is gouging the wood or damaging carvings. It also creates dust which might contain lead paint residue. (especially hazardous to young children) Once stripped, sand smooth, fill in any holes-gouges with appropriate wood filler. Stain if appropriate, and finish with a UV-protectant based (spar or marine urethane is one product) finish, allow to dry and lightly sand between coats and you should have a lovely door to put back up. Any loose joints in the wood should be reglued and any missing details replaced and secured before the finishing takes place. Please feel free to follow up should you have questions.

          1
  7. Dave Mummery says: 21 comments

    The more I look at this house, the more I like! I agree with finishing the attic; train room for me.
    This might warrant a Saturday field trip, its about 6 hours each way for me.

    • Chris DiMatteiChris DiMattei says: 234 comments

      Dave, wow, 12 hours in the car? Well, if you decide to make the trip, let me know. I could use some better photos of this home, and the house next door, for my Barber house documentation. That is, if you don’t mind shooting some while you are there. Thanks.

      crdimattei@gmail.com

  8. Michael MackinMichael Mackin says: 1082 comments

    It’s a cute house but the painted fireplace surrounds almost made me cry. Still, I think it would be worth the effort to take this back to what it was originally!

    1

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